This is what the canyon actually looks like. Four companies run tours to the canyon which is only about a quarter of a mile long. Some are "photographers" tours which include a lot tripods and fancy equipment and there are also shorter duration tourist-type tours, so at any given time, there may be a hundred or more people in the canyon with you. Since the canyon is on the Navajo Nation you can't go without a Navajo guide, which I'd initially suspected wasn't as romantic as it sounds. But as it turned out, Al, my guide, was indispensable. He's a photographer wrangler, a tourist wrangler, and he also knows when and where the beams of light are going to appear. Your guide spends most of his time barking "You! Here! You! Here! You! Over there! You! Step out of the way!" lining people up with the precision of a drill sergeant and holding back the tourists as long as he can before they ruin your shot. Then he races you to the next scenic place, lines you up, and throws some sand in the air to make the beams of light stand out.  All this serves to create, or perpetuate, a belief that you are a good photographer. But really, all you did was pay the $50 to get into the canyon. Anybody can take a breathtaking photograph in there -- t's like arm wrestling third graders.

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